Sep 09 2025
·4 min
The clouds had finally cleared. Google Maps gave us twelve minutes. From the road, we could make out the castle protruding through overgrown vegetation. We parked at the foot of the hill and walked over the moat towards the entrance. Along the way, all twelve of us stopped at gift shops. Lemon-decorated trinkets filled the shelves.
Making our way to the large entrance door of the castle, lemon printed plastic bags in hand, we agreed to purchase a ticket and walk inside.
Inside, we climbed a wide staircase and were guided through a sequence of rooms by a thick red rope. Each room felt more dramatic than the last. Wallpaper gave way to painted symbols, then to frescoes that spread across every flat surface. It felt as if the artist had moved through the castle through the same route we did, testing ideas, then committing to them more fully with each room.
One ceiling held my attention longer than the rest. Ornament framed a painted blue sky, partially concealed by a drape. The illusion was cracked and flaking. What was once meant to excite residents, now, still held people as they photographed it. The artist had tried to extend the room beyond its limits, pushing the flat ceiling into the surrounding Mediterranean sky. Time had made the effort more convincing.
The rooms that followed were wrapped in painted landscapes, one season per wall. Low cane furniture and lanterns reinforced the illusion. Near the end of the route, wedged between the main staircase and the outer facade, louvred windows opened onto the back garden. Through stained glass, palm trees stood rigid in the Sicilian sun. White paths cut between dense flower patches, their symmetry too deliberate to ignore. The view felt rehearsed, almost devotional.
We entered the garden through a domed vault. At noon, the heat flattened everything. Distant views were blocked by dense vegetation. Walking uphill, we stopped beneath a circular stone canopy. Thin stone walls nearby felt oddly placed. I called out to Lola to join me, but she was absorbed by the painted night sky on the underside of the vault, yellow stars scattered across a dark blue surface.
Crossing a small pond, we realised the walls formed a maze. We stepped inside without thinking. The stone walls were just under two metres high, enough to hide faces but not movement. I could track my friends by the tops of their heads. The walls were capped with rounded stones, their repetition interrupted only by motion.
Lola and I took one turn too many. My watch vibrated, notifying me of a slightly elevated heart rate. She sped up, determined to find the exit. I followed the faint traces of her footsteps, white pebbles disturbed where the path was least used. At the edges, wild vegetation had begun to creep back in.
Slowing down, it became clear that the maze defined the garden. The walls framed palm trees, focused movement, created tension. It was not neutral. It asked something of you.
I thought about my work at the agency.
How do we attract people to the green spaces we propose? Why are they so often empty? We design breathing spaces stripped of character. They lack nodes. They lack friction. No maze, no invitation to get lost. I imagined children running through a labyrinth lined with greenery instead of stone.
There was no exit on the far side.
We turned back the way we came.
Further west, flower patches edged the paths. Vegetation spilled slightly onto the paving. I could not tell what was maintained and what was left alone. Lava stone tiles held back the soil, their glazed patterns catching the light. I found myself absorbed in these details.
In this setting, I felt disappointed by a small project I had designed the week before. Minimal intervention. Low cost. Quick execution. The brief was clear, and it required a sacrifice of quality. My first physical intervention in the built environment would leave no trace worth remembering.
Could I satisfy internal pressure without giving that up?
Lola and I sat among the flowers. I picked a small yellow daisy and placed it in her hair. It reminded me of another space I had designed, now stalled, waiting on internal clarifications slow enough to erase it. With it went the possibility of other couples sitting like this, of children moving freely through an inviting place.
In this beauty, I was overcome with anger and frustration.